CATCHING UP

Michelle Kapana-Baird, Kala Thomas (on Te Matau A Maui), Ikaika Vivas and I arrived in Tahiti a week ago, midnight.  Luckily our crew came to pick us up, and took us to a church hall in Arue to sleep.  We got there at one in the morning, and were informed that breakfast was going to be at six, and then at seven, we would be heading out to Fare Hape for three days.  It was a bit of a scramble to unpack my massive bag and repack what I needed for three days in a little one.  Fare Hape is a campground in the heart of the Papeno’o Valley,and is used by the Fa’afaite crew as a training ground.  Because the crew switches hadn’t been made yet, both old and new crews were in attendance.  There were about 150 people.  It was a good chance to greet old friends and make new ones, as well as to talk about the purpose that we are here for.  We were broken into groups to discuss various issues, actual and philosophical.  Afterwards, crew got together and met about how these issues affect each ones of us.  Our Haunui crew discussed being more responsible about using goods in bulk, as well being careful about our trash; making sure recyclables are taken care of.  We also discussed the role of  women on the canoe, and came to the conclusion that life on the canoe, just as at home or on any island, requires respect of all people equally.  Each of us has our strengths and weaknesses, which is why we are a crew, not individuals making this journey.   Our motto,

 from Gandhi, has become “Be the change” (you want to see in the world).  We were discussing having that carved into the deck where people come on board.  If each of us acts responsibly to make one change, imagine what the result would be! Fare Hape is also rich in history, including a number of famous marae.  We spent about two hours at a large ceremony welcoming us, one hour of that in the rain.  On the last day, we also saw a rock called Opurei a Pere…yes, Pele.  According to tradition, she was raised in Fare Hape and fed fire by the hape (caterpillars) there.  It was only later that she began her travels through the Society Islands and to Hawai’i.  One of the marae also honoured Kamohoali’I, her brother.

The road into Fare Hape was an adventure itself, requiring 4-wheel drive and running for many miles into the heart of Tahiti Nui.  Because there had been a significant amount of rain, the river we had to drive over and through was in flood.  At one point, we had to drive over a reservoir spillway, which was about a foot deep in rushing water.  With the continued rain, we weren’t sure we’d get out in time to make our departure!  Preparation for departure was crazy – moving all our gear onto the waka (crew of 22), inventorying everything on board, buying and packing food and making sure everything was in place.  One complication was that we had gone for a short sail the night prior to departure, and experienced engine trouble.  We had to have some parts replaced the next day before we could leave.  We finally left about 6 pm, and headed out on a heading of 297 degrees for Huahine.

Our captain is Greg, who is new on the crew.  Kalei, who has been on since Fakarava last year is the sailmaster, and was the navigator from the Galapagos.  Wati (Manihera) is navigating until Rarotonga.  Huia, Hana-lee and Murray are watch captains.  The crew includes myself, Rere, Poi, Ikaika, Jef, Kainoa, Hotu, Gorohu and Michelle.  I think I’m forgetting someone…We are mostly from New Zealand and Hawaii, and Gorohu is from Papua New Guinea.  The crews as a whole represent almost the entire Pacific: a srong presence and a strong voice to represent our islands.

Wati was in charge of the navigation, but we had good time checking on each other’s memory of stars and declinations.  Both of us stayed up all night, which was not particularly difficult until about 3 am, when your mind goes blank or you fall asleep without knowing it.  I asked Wati something at one point, and I’m pretty sure he gave me an answer in his sleep.  As dawn broke, we saw Huahine on the horizon, a shadow beneath the clouds.  As the morning came on, Faafaite was obvious off our stern and closing in.  We spent much time re-setting sails and playing with the dagger boards to get some speed.  We ended up sailing into Huahine side by side.

Tomorrow before dawn we head off to Ra’iatea for a big ceremony at Taputapuatea. Having been thrown together into a very different lifestyle, we are quickly becoming a family, everyone trying at the outset to be kind and respectful of each other.  Of course, there are multiple personalities on board, and little irritations do occur, but to make this voyage a success, we need to work through those and move forward.  Already, we have our buzz words and little jokes, not just among our crew, but with the other crews as well.  It is pretty amazing to be here, sitting on a waka next to the pier in Fare, Huahine, and typing this so I can head over to the internet shop and send it out.  At times, both Michelle and I have been homesick, but I am reminding myself that his adventure is not to be missed, and I need to live in the moment and enjoy it. Home sweet Haunui!